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Isle Of Man - Britain's Quirky Beach Haven
A WorldWeb.com feature travel article.
Home > United Kingdom > Isle of Man > Features & Reviews > Historical > Editorial
 
Isle Of Man - Britain's Quirky Beach Haven
from WorldWeb.com Travel Guide

Peel Castle Ruins
Peel Castle Ruins

Found in the Irish Sea, midway between Liverpool, England and Dublin, Ireland, the Isle of Man is often described as "quirky". It certainly has a character of its own, mixing Celtic and Scandinavian themes throughout the centuries. Still, the seaport capital of Douglas has a Victorian essence, showing the strong British influence. Only 50 km (33 mi) long, the Isle of Man has a rich and extensive history, extending from the Manx Iron Age (500 BCE to 500 AD) through today.

History:

According to legend, the island appeared when two men, one in Ireland and the other in England had a ferocious argument. Part of Ireland was thrown at England, but landed in the sea. Centuries later, man moved in. This fun tale may be unlikely, but whatever the origins may be, the Isle has been home to humans for thousands of years. The earliest surviving records are found inscribed on stones and slabs from the first Millennium. Ogham, the most common script from the early period, is a hybrid language based on the Celtic script brought over from southern Ireland in the 5th century and runes brought by Norse visitors.

The Vikings had stronger influence on the residents than any other culture. Evidence of this can be seen in everything from the language to the remains of ancient castles. The greatest gift the Norsemen left is the system of government, a system that is still in effect today. This small land boasts the oldest continuously running parliament in the world, the Tynwald, with more than 1,000 years of uninterrupted rule. It is this governing body that ensures the Isle of Man enjoys independence while technically a Crown Dependency. British Parliament must gain specific consent to pass legislation concerning the island and its people. Celebrations are held every summer in honour of this monumental event.

The Isle withstood countless invasions of Britain, and over the centuries, social and trade relations developed with England, Ireland and Scotland. By the mid-13th century it was not uncommon to find sovereignty and the social elite walking along its rocky shores. In part because the island was of considerable strategic importance during the middle ages. Conflict between England and Scotland often led to a change in lordship over the land, but by the 14th century the British had firmly staked their claim.

Where is it Anyway?
Map of the Isle

Fortunately for the Isle, the residents were allowed to keep their own native language. The tongue has both Celtic and Norse roots, and is a challenge to master. "S’baghtal dy liooar dy vel feyshtyn neuaashagh dy liooar faagit gyn freggyrt ayns as ass Mannin." (It is fairly clear that there are many difficult questions which remain unanswered or unasked in Mann). Fortunately for tourists, most islanders are bilingual, and speak English as well.

In 1405, the land was given to Sir John Stanley, and stayed with the Stanley clan for more than 300 years. During their rule the island became a safe haven for British Royalists.

One of the more curious enigmas from the land of Manx involves the Mayflower voyage of 1620. One of its passengers, Myles Standish-a Pilgrim Father, New England colonist and military leader for the Puritans; is rumoured to have come from the Isle. Much speculation abounds concerning the truth of his origins and adventures on the Isle of Man.

During the 1700s, the Isle became a den of thieves. Smuggling was the most successful venture in the land. In an attempt to regain control and stop the rampant crime, Britain invoked the Re-Vestment Act in 1765. The commonwealth purchased the Isle of Man for £70, 000. Although intended to save the British hundreds of thousands each year, the act in effect robbed the island of its primary source of income.

In 1886, the government created the "Manx Museum and Ancient Monuments Act", intended to preserve the historically significant Manx stone crosses and the history they reveal.

The modern day Isle of Man enjoys a special relationship with the European Union, which allows for shipping to and from the Port of Douglas. Islanders keep pace with the rest of the world through the traditional industries of agriculture and fishing. By the end of the 20th century it had developed a strong position in the manufacturing sector. By far the busiest industry, however, is financial services. The Isle is commonly used as a tax shelter for "mainland British". Strong economic growth has led to extremely low levels of unemployment, further strengthening the island's financial future.

Until recently, travel and tourism was limited mostly to residents from Britain, Scotland and Ireland, and was mostly mainlanders visiting family living on the Isle. The explosion of the "information age", however, has drawn more attention to this tiny island in the sea.

Climate:

Weather patterns are fairly mild, never falling too much on either side of the thermostat. Warm winds from the Gulf Stream cover the island, which serve to raise the temperature during the winter months. Rainfall is heaviest during those months, and at times the cold can be penetrating. January is most often the coldest month, with temperatures settling around 5º Celsius (42º Fahrenheit). Strong winds, sometimes up to 63 kilometre per hour (39 mph), can make it seem much colder. Summer months are more forgiving, but only slightly. Temperatures settle around 18º Celsius (65º Fahrenheit) during the hottest months of July and August, but the wind rarely gets above 18 kilometre per hour (11 mph).

The Marina
The Marina

Transportation:

The Isle is connected to the world by air through the Ronaldsway Airport in Ballasalla via most of Britain and parts of Ireland. Daily flights leave Ronaldsway for London, Southampton, Cardiff, Manchester, Birmingham, Liverpool, Glasgow, Dublin and Belfast. Connector flights also visit the Channel Islands. Flights rates are usually higher when travelling to the Isle, though many discount packages are available.

On that note, there are several places from which to rent a car at the airport, and the transit system makes regular stops there as well.

Isle of Man Steam Packet, the only sea service to the island, operates regular daily ferries (4 hours one way) and catamarans (2.5 hours by seacat) between Douglas Harbour and Liverpool. Less frequent trips are offered to both Belfast and Dublin. Vehicles can be taken on most vessels, though weight and size restrictions apply.

Getting around the Isle is also fairly easy. A steam engine train runs between Douglas and Port Erin in the south, but only during summer months. Many stops along the 65 mile route make for a one and a half hour trip. Also in the summer months, an electric tram can be taken all the way to Ramsey in the north.

A comprehensive national bus system covers the rest of the Isle, with varying route times based on departure points.

Sights and Attractions:

Scuba Diving Off The Coast
Scuba Diving Off The Coast

Being an island, the Isle of Man is an ideal place for scuba diving and snorkelling. The relative shelter of the Irish Sea lends itself to perfect waters for sea exploration, with many different creatures to observe. Creatures such as octopus and the Basking Shark. This is a big shark, second in size only to the Whale Shark, but it is not dangerous. Its one meter wide mouth and six rows of teeth seek only plankton. Shark Watch Weekends, departing from Peel, offer a great opportunity to see one of nature's largest creatures (Basking Sharks can reach three tons, or as much as two elephants!) while they are still around.

The Isle is also a fantastic vacation spot for land lovers, with many lush, green valleys, rolling hills, and a coastline that can be explored by foot. Peace loving adventure seekers should not pass by without travelling the Raad ny Foillan--or Road of the Gull, a walking path which encircles the entire island, where the jagged and rocky cliffs of many a Manx legend can be seen.

Following a similar route is the Mountain Circuit, a scenic motorcycle trip following the bending roads of the island.

Nature enthusiasts will also enjoy the great climb of Snaefell Hill. Nowhere on the island are the views as impressive. This small hill, found north of Douglas, is the highest point on the island. At 621 meters (a little more than 2,000 feet), it is not a difficult hike. The nearby coastal town of Laxey offers an optional effort free route up, to the summit by tram.

For a more historical perspective on island life, the Nautical Museum in Castletown presents "Peggy", a yacht and its boathouse from 1789. Peggy had a long career in shipping. Mostly on the smuggling side, but occasionally she even enjoyed the odd regatta. Peggy was named after the owner's mother, and when she died he locked the ship in the boathouse, never to ride the seas again. The yacht was discovered in 1935, more than a century after retirement. The oldest school on the island, circa 1570, can be found in St Mary's Church on the same grounds. The church itself dates back to 1250.

The Laxey Wheel is famous as the largest water wheel in the world. The wheel draws 1136 litres (250 gallons) per minute from a total depth of 550 meters (about 1800 feet). Built in the early 1800s, the "Lady Isabella" spent the better part of a century pumping water from the local mines. When mining on the island came to an end, the wheel became one of the best known tourist attractions on the Isle of Man.

No ancient country would be complete without a few castles. Thirteenth century Castle Rushen offers a superb view of the land from the flagtower.

Peel Castle, from the 14th century, can be found on St. Patrick's Isle. For centuries the castle was home to kings and princesses, defenders of the land. Abandoned since the 1700s, only the sandstone walls remain to draw a picture of centuries overlooking the often violent western sea. It is not uncommon on a castle visit to hear locals speaking in traditional Manx and playing Manx music.

Port Erin
Port Erin

Certainly the biggest event happens between May and June when up to 50,000 tourists invade the island for the annual Tourist Trophy. The race grew out of British interest in road racing, which was banned in the United Kingdom. In 1904, the Tynwald passed an act allowing for the racing of automobiles on the island. Races had to be less than three days, there was no racing on Sundays, and the act expired at the end of that calendar year. Needless to say, it was a tremendous success. The expiration date was removed and the event has grown beyond all expectations.

Every summer, locals hold a ceremony at St. John's honouring the 1,000 year history of the Tynwald. After a service in the church, a military band entertains while members of parliament gather on the hill. Any new laws created during the past year are read in English and Manx.

One of the more unique sites are the Viking burial grounds that can be found around the island, dating back many centuries. Different burial procedures denote the importance of the person. Some were buried in what appears to be boats while others were in coffins. There is evidence of both animal and human sacrifice as well. Burial sites have given up a wide variety of treasures, from swords and shields to harnesses and blacksmith tools.